Best Derma Roller 2023: Herbivore to Sarah Chapman

By Aaron Toumazou and Adrian Clark

Not only could a derma roller be the missing tool in your comprehensive grooming regime, but it could also relieve stress and make your beard grow thicker. Here's what to know before you buy

On paper, rolling tiny needles over your face hardly seems conducive to flawless skin. But there are plenty of reasons why derma rollers live up to the hype bestowed by those most militant about their grooming ritual. From the reduced appearance of scars and fine lines to the better absorption of those products already in your skincare line-up, and, yes, even hair growth, here's what you ought to know…

Derma rollers commonly incorporate micro-needles into their build to create micro-injuries across the surface of the skin. Not only does that trigger new collagen by encouraging the skin to repair itself, but the small injuries it causes also create channels which allow the active ingredients from trusty skincare products such as anti-ageing creams, toners and night creams penetrate deeper into the skin for enhanced efficacy. Used over a period of time, you should find that the use of a derma roller will allow that £100-plus skin tincture investment to better perform what you bought it for. Other derma rollers opt for a less invasive build, instead using precious stones for their healing benefits while stimulating the facial muscles to firm up the skin.

The varying size of the needles on your derma roller will be better suited for different skin goals. Smaller needles of 0.25 to 0.5mm tend to be the standard, used to treat enlarged pores, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and wrinkles. If you’re looking to reduce the appearance of scars from acne or otherwise, or to encourage hair or beard growth, needles upwards of 1mm are better suited to the task.

Seeing as you need to leave time for cells to activate and regenerate after use, using a derma roller every day would be counterintuitive. Ultimately, the regularity depends on the size of needles. There's no harm in using a non-intrusive derma roller daily, while one with needles of up to 0.5mm could be used every other day. Anything upwards of 1mm should be restricted to around fortnightly, when skin feels completely recovered.

It's imperative you keep your derma roller sanitised before and after every use to avoid contaminating the skin. This isn't just a good hygiene PSA – derma rollers effectively puncture the skin and so could be breeding grounds for bacteria which cause irritation or, worse, infection. Simply use rubbing alcohol to sterilise, followed by a quick clean with soap.

Some derma rollers, such as Copenhagen Grooming's beard roller and Hairburst's scalp roller, have been engineered to prevent hair loss and/or promote hair growth. That's because of the tiny wounds in the skin caused by a derma roller's micro-needles, which can regenerate the health of hair follicles and result in new hair growth or the thickening of thinning hair. As with the creams and serums you apply to your face, it also aids the absorption of other products used to treat hair loss and encourage growth, such as minoxidil.

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This fuss-free and down-to-earth Danish brand (founded in 2015) specialises in problem-solving solutions with an uncompromising focus on efficacy. Designed to meet the challenges of fine lines, uneven skin tone and to prevent early signs of ageing, the brand's signature derma roller, which uses 540 (0.5mm) surgical steel micro-needles, is one of its most innovative inventions. To be used on both the face and the neck, it stimulates the skin by boosting its natural resilience and visibly increases elasticity. Suitable for all skin types, it is a multi-functional tool that (with increased use) will result in the tightening of loose, sagging skin, a reduction of scars from surgery or burns and the correction of pigmentation. Also good for dry acne scars (but don't ever use on an active breakout); enlarged pores, lines and uneven skin texture look less noticeable. Use as part of your evening grooming regime a couple of times per week and clean between uses with an equal mix of ethanol and water. £78. ecooking.com

Inspired by one of the most popular treatments offered in Chapman's Skinesis clinic in Chelsea, this 21-day system (to be used once a week) combines the benefits of high-potency skincare with micro-needling technology. The roller, which comes with three x one-use roller heads, creates painless micro-channels that enable maximum absorption of the Pep8 Stem Cell Serum that comes with it. The all-natural needles in the roller heads dissolve upon application, releasing an active complex of low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and signature Platinum Matrix-EM deep below the skin's surface. This action is then followed up with one of the peptide-rich serum ampoules supplied. Advanced science and plant stem technology working in perfect unison, the one-off three-week treatment reaps terrific results, thus the price, leading to firmer, smoother, plumper-looking skin, faded scarring and discolouration, reduced lines and wrinkles and enhanced radiance. The pack contains one roller, three needle tips and three serum ampoules. £138. At Selfridges. selfridges.com

Taking its lead from ancient Eastern beauty rituals, this non-invasive facial roller, crafted from natural lapis lazuli, offers both physical and spiritual benefits. Its gentle and repetitive motion (it can be used twice a day) helps to destress, encourages peace of mind and a feeling of Zen while exercising underlying muscles to promote and prolong skin firmness. By easing muscle tension and counteracting puffiness, it also effectively restores elasticity and assists with lymph drainage. Also available in other restorative minerals (rose quartz, jade and amethyst), the blue lapis lazuli stone has been linked to the throat chakra and is said to activate the "third eye". Store in the fridge for maximum efficacy and an enhanced experience. Firming the skin while metaphysically enhancing clarity, it is one of the bestsellers from this niche Seattle-based brand with a solid rep for green and clean, natural beauty. £50. At cultbeauty.co.uk

Developed to help grow and groom awesome beards, Danish-born Copenhagen Grooming is one of the more innovative ranges to join the expanding grooming sector dedicated to the maintenance of facial hair. By stimulating hair growth and activating follicle repair, this roller actively encourages beards to grow thicker, faster and more fortified. Using a metal-crafted handle with rubber-resist technology, and featuring a head of 540 (0.5mm) titanium needles (sounds brutal but is actually pretty painless), it gently pierces the top layer of the skin, creating thousands of micro-injury channels that offer easier access for serums and moisturisers to penetrate and absorb deeply while helping to regenerate new follicle and tissue production. Basically, it utilises the body's natural healing process. Use twice a week with CG's Activator Serum to promote hair growth and increase blood circulation. The roller, which lasts around six months before the needles blunt, should never be shared with anyone and should always be cleaned with an antibacterial spray before and after use. £50. cphgrooming.com

Helping to combat premature signs of ageing, fine lines and wrinkles, this elegantly crafted derma-roller from the holistic-inspired Austrian beauty brand Susanne Kaufman will help turn back the clock and add some elevated design to your bathroom shelf. Made from obsidian stone (used in traditional medicine), which is known to have healing benefits, its main aim is to help minimise pores, relieve muscle inflammation and strengthen the connective tissue. Suitable for all skin types, it has been designed by Susanne's brother, renowned architect Oskar Leo Kaufmann. Using hand-cut black obsidian stone from the South Tyrol region and featuring a handle carved from fine nut wood and blackened hardware, which has been forged by expert blacksmith Felder in Andelsbuch, it really is a thing of beauty. Rejuvenating and cooling, it makes light work of fine lines and wrinkles, aids the absorption of vitamins C and D and helps to depute by draining excess fluids. £230. At mrporter.com

Specifically designed to boost thinning hair by encouraging collagen and cell regeneration, this scalp roller embraces micro-needling technology. Used for 15 minutes three times per week, the 540 titanium needles (0.25mm thick), which are spread across the roller head, support stronger, thicker hair growth and stimulate healthy scalp condition. Working in much the same way as a face roller (but with finer needles) it creates micro-tears, which induce a healing process promoting collagen production and stimulating cell regeneration. Also increasing the efficacy and absorption of topical treatments (it is recommended you follow up with a hair and scalp serum), employ it by rolling over the scalp and hairline and always sterilise between uses. £17.99. hairburst.com

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